Lipstick: A brief history of glamour, rebellion, and trends
Words by Rae Angelei J. Regalado
My earliest memory of makeup was watching my mother put on this gorgeous deep red on her lips as she got ready for Sunday mass. And like all children I thought my mother with her lipstick on must be the prettiest woman in the world.
Although my memory of lipstick only goes back twenty years, this iconic product has been glamming up the women (and men) of history for centuries.
Lipstick was used to denote social status with royals acting as the very first influencers, spreading the trend to their followers and across nations. As early as 3,500 B.C. Sumerian queen Schub-ad colored her lips with a concoction of white lead and crushed stones and gems. Three thousand years later Egyptian queen Cleopatra would rock a new formula, using carmine to achieve the perfect red. Carmine produced such a beautiful color that the ingredient is still in use today!
Relief of Cleopatra as a goddess, c. 69–30 BCE, Temple of Hathor, Dandarah, Egypt.
The Art Archive/Shutterstock.com
As centuries passed lipstick no longer represented high society but instead gained a reputation for seduction and witchcraft. It was only with the coronation of another great queen did women make a stand to wear cosmetics. Queen Elizabeth I wore crimson and even invented an early lip pencil. During her reign lipstick was even believed to have lifesaving powers so much so that when she felt ill, she would apply a fresh coat.
Elizabeth I, oil on panel attributed to George Gower, about 1588.
Photos.com/Thinkstock
In the 20th century this thread of rebellion continued with the suffragettes as they fought for female emancipation. The application of a bright red lip becoming part of standard rally procedure incorporating into the 1912 New York Suffragette Rally. It was at this point that a bright red lip represented a woman who did not care about the opinions of men and became a symbol for female rebellion.
Image from cnn.com
Which brings us to the modern day of lipstick. Gone are the crushed gemstones and lead and hello to our moisturizing and pigmented formula! Nowadays you have the choice of thousands of shades and finishes to give you that perfect lip.
Take a look at history and you’ll find that people have always had a favorite shade.
In the 1920s the everyday woman had Tangee. A tangerine shade that was cheap, costing just 10 cents a tube and was less brash than a wild red.
Image courtesy of The Hausfrau Journal.
Image courtesy of Vermont Country Store.
During World Ward II in the 1940s, Elizabeth Arden released the iconic shade Victory Red. The patriotic color was said to boost morale and was a hit with both women in the military and civilians.
Actress Constance Ford photographed by Philippe Halsman 1941 / photo from irkmagazine.com
To match the new fashion trends of the time, the 60’s and 70’s favored light pinks and nudes, frosty pastels and lip glosses. Max Factor having been the makeup of choice for Hollywood was quick to grow and develop new cosmetics for the time.
Image courtesy of Cosmetics and Skin
The 1980s saw more and more women entering the workforce and along with it the return of bold reds and bright pinks. Women were donning these intense shades as warpaint as they entered boardrooms and offices.
Image courtesy of Dallo Spazio.
Minimalism was trending in the 90s which meant nude lipsticks: browns, roses, and raisins. Actresses from our favorite classic shows, FRIENDS and Sex and the City, were rocking the nude lip.
Image courtesy of Cover Girl Continuous Color, 1995.
Fashion trends changed yet again in the 2000s with the rise of denim, low rise jeans and Juicy Couture track suits. To match we wore shiny glosses and long lasting liquid lipsticks. Remember when Lancome Juicy Tubes were THE lip color to have? The smell of them is as unforgettable as the lightly tinted glossy lips they give us.
Image courtesy of RY.
The 2010s to present day have been marked by the celebrity exclusive, with our favorite celebrities partnering with brands to create and curate their own shades and collections. Some celebrities like Kylie Jenner, Selena Gomez, and Rihanna even launching makeup companies with their own cult followings.
Image courtesy of Allure
With all the trends that have come, gone, and made a comeback, what was your favorite time for lipstick?