Is There A Real Difference Between Drugstore and Luxury Skincare?

Photography by Perkin Gotohio

In the beauty community, there's a pervasive belief that the difference between drugstore brands and premium skincare brands boils down to just a few active ingredients and a whole lot of marketing. As someone who has developed skincare products with manufacturers, I can confidently say this is not the full story. The truth is far more nuanced and interesting.

Let's start with the basics: raw materials. The quality of raw materials used in skincare products can vary dramatically, impacting both the efficacy and the price of the final product. For instance, a kilo of ascorbic acid powder might cost around P1,000, whereas stabilized ascorbic acid can set a manufacturer back a whopping P20,000 per kilo (or even more, depends where you source it). Even base raw materials that comprise of the bulk and emulsifiers can vary dramatically in price. This difference in quality translates directly to the effectiveness of the product. Premium brands often invest in higher-quality, more stable ingredients that offer better results.

Of course, not every expensive skincare product justifies its price. There are definitely unscrupulous brands that price their mediocre products beyond reason. However, many premium products are expensive for good reasons beyond just the raw materials. Factors such as the scale of the business, the location of the manufacturing facility, and the innovation behind the formulations also play crucial roles.

The debate often shifts to whether these differences in ingredients and production truly justify the price disparity in terms of user results. In my experience, the answer is a resounding yes. The brands I personally use—Shiseido, Drunk Elephant, and even Cerave for basic cleansing—demonstrate the impact of investing in quality ingredients. While my Cerave cleanser is affordable and effective for basic cleansing, my other products contain high-quality actives that deliver noticeable results.

When I was running my own skincare brand, I chose to use expensive actives from Japan and Korea. These choices weren't just about personal preference; they were about efficacy. However, I found that maintaining such high standards was not always sustainable in the Philippine market due to cost constraints, especially since I chose to manufacture here. That’s a different discussion altogether!

Commitment to a skincare routine is undoubtedly important, but it’s crucial to understand that consistency won't yield significant results if the products you’re using are fundamentally ineffective. Using what is essentially thickened water with weak actives won’t give you the skin transformation you're hoping for. That said, affordable Japanese skincare brands can be an exception. Japan is renowned for its obsession with innovation and high-quality raw materials, allowing them to create affordable yet effective skincare solutions.

These affordable options are excellent for maintenance and some improvement, but if you're aiming for high-level efficacy, investing in well-formulated, premium brands can be worthwhile. Brands that prioritize research, quality raw materials, and innovative formulations are more likely to deliver the results you desire.

So yes, the difference between drugstore and premium skincare is more than just marketing fluff. It's about the quality of raw materials, the science behind the formulations, and the overall production process. While it's tempting to go for cheaper options, understanding the value of investing in your skincare can make a world of difference for your skin. So next time you’re deciding between a drugstore brand and a premium product, remember that often, you do get what you pay for.