Kate Tokyo reveals the secret to a smooth, even base and shapely almond eyes

Just how knowledgeable are you when it comes to Japanese beauty trends? The cosplayers and Harajuku girls get a lot of press, but the surprise is in seeing how the rest of the Japanese ladies do their makeup. There is a fair share of women who favor a more minimalist, understated approach to beauty. Flawless skin, as well as strategically placed color and shimmer, give them fresh faces and an elegant air.

Kate Tokyo is one of the brands under Japan’s prestigious Kanebo, the mother company of Lunasol, Freshel, and Impress. It has been around since the late 90’s, when it was known simply as Kate. Compared to its sister brands, Kate Tokyo's approach to makeup is more trendy and edgy to match the glam, fashion-forward aspect of Tokyo.

The latest releases include shimmery, metallic shadows, a BB mousse, and a primer!

At the event, makeup artist Floe Tapayan and brand manager Robby da Silva explained that the method for applying the trendy gradient eyes has been shifting from horizontal to vertical gradation. Eye shadow gradation is a popular technique for contouring that lends to the appearance of eyes that are bigger and more awake. The eyes are painted to achieve the coveted almond shape (which is considered as the most ideal eye shape) as a result.

Kanebo Makeup Artist Floe Tapayan and Brand Manager Robbie Da Silva

With vertical gradation, the darkest shadow color is applied to the outer corner of the eyelid, emphasizing the edges. The midtone or most colorful shade is applied right around the area of the pupil, causing a more wide-eyed effect. This method comes in handy for narrower eyes and monolids, but is applicable to bigger, rounder eyes as well.

Horizontal gradation (left) versus Vertical gradation (right)

To use the new Forming Edge Eyes palette (P770), Floe recommends this technique: starting with the medium color, apply it to the mid eye area. Use the light shadow to brighten the inner corner, then place the darkest shade to contour the outer corner. This helps to maintain the vibrancy of the individual colors and to make blending the three shadows into each other easier. Do the same gradient effect for the lower lash line, but use a fine applicator or brush instead. 

Now here’s the secret to customizing vertical gradation technique to your eye shape: it’s just a matter of going the opposite of where the outer corners of your eyes point. Droopy or down-turned eyes should use upward strokes when the darkest shade is being applied. It will make a huge difference in canceling out the “sleepy look”. In the same way, downward strokes are recommended for upturned eyes. For those with monolids, a little bit of exaggeration is required. Go above the fold and use the socket line as your guide to give the folds an extended appearance.

Kate Forming Edge Eyes is available in eight combinations, ranging from demure brown to romantic pink to statement-making blue:

Left to right: GD1, GN1, PK1, SV1, BR1, BR2, BR3, BU1

SV1 and BU1 are ideal for smokey eyes on a night out. GD1 has a popping gold color, but is still appropriate for daytime use. Our favorites? The stunning pink of PK1, of course! (Always a Project Vanity fave.) Then there’s the edgy olive hue of GN1 that takes us out of our bronze-based comfort zone. And did we mention that the shadows are pigmented yet easy to blend?

The Kate Makeup Lock Primer (P550) is a fragrance-free, long-lasting makeup base that minimizes pores and prevents skin from oiling up quickly. It’s lightweight and doesn’t bring out dry patches. It’s something of a departure from the heavy-duty primers out there, so we think those with drier skin types will appreciate it. 

For a complexion that speaks volumes, Kate Powdery Mousse BB (P660) is a mousse-to-powder face base that’s ideal for the hot weather here. This is a lifesaver for those who seek multipurpose makeup because it packs coverage, moisture, and even SPF in one step. You can also skip the powder because of its matte finish! Currently there are only two shades available, but Kate may make more colors available in the future.

Do you want to get on the bandwagon of this Japanese makeup trend? Which product are you most excited to swatch?

Kate Tokyo is available in select SM Department Stores and Watsons.

Marielle Ong

Age range: 24-29

Skin type/shade: light yellow undertones, dry

Skin concerns: large pores, blemishes

Hair type: naturally curly/wavy, thick, color-treated

Hair concerns: flyaways and frizzy hair

Eye shape: monolid

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