The Derma Corner: Four skincare trends dermatologists want you to leave behind ASAP
Trends come and go and when we remember the trends we used to follow in the past, we would cringe and recall how ridiculous they were. As much as we dermatologists would like to just cringe at skincare trends and laugh them off, we would rather you know why they need to be stopped because of the real danger they pose to the skin.
·DIY skincare
Not all of DIY skincare are harmful but when you add ingredients that can irritate your skin, or follow recipes that claim to be the equivalent of certain products - I’m looking at homemade sunscreen recipes - then that’s when they become hazardous.
I have seen a lot of patients come in for consult because they’ve used calamansi juice as brightening agents, apple cider vinegar in face masks, or ground coffee beans as face scrubs. Calamansi and lemon juice are by nature acidic and can cause allergic or sunlight-induced reactions. Apple cider vinegar is also acidic and may cause severe irritating reactions or burns on the skin. Used coffee grounds can be too abrasive no matter what your skin type is and may cause micro-tears on the skin.
Likewise, homemade sunscreens don’t offer high SPF’s, or at least are not regulated and tested to determine how much photoprotection it offers. Wearing an untested sunscreen when going out is risky because there’s always the danger of UV rays on unprotected skin.
At-home procedures that should be done by a professional and in a clinical setting
When it comes to aesthetic procedures, more people these days would rather look into at-home options rather than have a proper consultation with a dermatologist to save on money. Two procedures I’ve commonly seen peddled on online commerce platforms are microneedling tools and chemical peels.
I have seen medical-grade concentrations of chemical peels like trichloroacetic acid and glycolic acid in 20% and above being sold in ecommerce platforms like Shopee and Lazada. These acids are not suitable for everyone and these high concentrations should be under the supervision of professionals when used. They can reap the greatest benefits on the skin but they can also cause complications when not done properly like hypo- and hyperpigmentation, scarring, blistering, and infections to name a few.
Dermarollers or microneedles are used for dermatologic concerns like acne scarring, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles. The main difference with at-home microneedles versus those from a professional is the shorter needles. Therefore, one would need to have it done more frequently to produce the results comparable to a clinical setting. In doing so, the needles get blunter with each use which lessens its effectivity and can damage the skin instead.
It’s also worrying how these will be cleaned and stored. Since the idea of microneedling is to puncture the skin, induce trauma and promote collagen production, unsterile needles may cause infections. Those who cannot undergo this procedure are those with inflammatory acne, skin infections and skin conditions like eczemas, rosacea, psoriasis, etc. For scarring and wrinkles, I still recommend having this procedure done in clinics by a trained professional because of the need for longer needles.
Pore vacuums/extractors
If you have oily and acne-prone skin, you might have thought of ways to extract those pesky blackheads. Pore vacuums are tools I’ve seen in the market that promise to suck and remove dead skin cells and blackheads thru its suction tip. But the truth is, these devices only offer mild suction for your pores, not enough to extract blackheads, and can cause microtears or aggravate skin conditions like acne and eczema. If your main skin concern is congested pores and blackhead removal, it’s better to consult with a board-certified dermatologist to be able to analyze your skin and guide you on how to do it the right way.
Clean beauty
I don’t hate clean beauty brands and their products. I have tried a few of them and liked some. What I hate and what I have never approved of from them is the fear-mongering campaign and spread of misinformation that they do against certain “toxic” ingredients (e.g., petrolatum, sulfates, parabens, mineral oil, etc.) to make consumers believe that their own products are safer.
The truth is that there aren’t enough scientific research and evidence to back up their claims that those ingredients are toxic and are associated to cancer or other medical problems. Also, the words “natural” and “organic” does not necessarily equate to being safe; I actually get more cases of allergic reactions with products that have natural ingredients in them.
If your goal is to make your skin healthier this year, I highly encourage everyone of you to consult with a board-certified dermatologist first before you try any trends you might have read or seen in social media. Remember, no skincare trend is worth damaging your skin over.
Until my next article then, stay safe!
Dr. Nikki Paderna is currently available for online consultations thru the HealthNow and Medifi app on Google Play for Android devices and on the Apple store for iOS devices, or thru the FB page, Vivestrata Dermatology Clinic (for face-to-face consultations, kindly message the FB page for details).
