Paula’s Choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment Review: Does higher percentage mean better performance?

Not all formulations are created equal. It’s also rather easy to get sucked into skincare ingredient lists and get impressed with high-percentages of certain actives. Paula’s Choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment has been hailed for its high concentration of this crowd-favorite – but is it really more effective?

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Niacinamide and your pores

Before we go any further, let’s address this once and for all: No, you cannot shrink or close your pores. What you can actually do is minimize their appearance. As we get older, our pores can also appear bigger due to the loss of collagen. If, rather than small, round dots on your face, you start noticing that your pores are starting to look more like a tear drop, it’s time for more collagen and some niacinamide in your routine.

As a form of Vitamin B3, a lot of people also love using niacinamide for treating acne and the scars they leave behind.  

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Paula’s Choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment

The product comes in a light-proof glass bottle with a dropper for easily dispensing the product and keeping it clean.

I first started using this product while living in Berlin and my skin was acting up. There was nothing to write home about. On its own and paired with my usual moisturizer, it was pretty okay. It didn’t irritate my skin but there was no noticeable improvement. However, what changed the game was when I started pairing it with BHAs like The Ordinary’s Salicylic Acid 2% or Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant.

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Right off the bat, my skin showed a lot of improvement improvement. BHAs, after all, are great for unclogging pores and the Niacinamide working with it to minimize their appearance while brightening and soothing the skin made for such a great combination. 

Was it better than The Ordinary’s 10% Niacinamide + Zinc 1%? I found that I like the texture of Paula’s Choice better and it sinks in without being tacky at first, making it a much more comfortable formula. As for its efficacy, I say they’re roughly the same as long as you pair it with a good BHA.

Yes, it’s a little pricey for sustained use. This is USD48 on their main website, EUR 52 in Germany, and a whopping PHP4,300 from a Lazada reseller. However, if you’re someone who wants to kickstart your journey into minimizing the appearance of your pores, this is a great product to invest in. Just make sure you also get a good BHA to enhance its effects.


Here’s the full ingredients list: Water (Aqua), Niacinamide (skin-restoring/skin-replenishing), Pentylene Glycol (solvent/texture enhancer), Butylene Glycol (slip agent/hydration), Glycerin (skin-replenishing), Acetyl Glucosamine (skin-replenishing), Ascorbyl Glucoside (vitamin C/antioxidant), Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract (skin-soothing/antioxidant), Spiraea Ulmaria (Meadowsweet) Extract (antioxidant), Portulaca Oleracea (Purslane) Extract (antioxidant), Camellia Japonica Flower Extract (antioxidant), Epigallocatechin Gallate (green tea-derived antioxidant), Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract (skin-soothing), Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract (antioxidant), Allantoin (skin-soothing), Lecithin (skin-replenishing), Pullulan (texture enhancer), Panthenol (hydration), Silica (absorbent), Xanthan Gum (thickener), Sclerotium Gum (thickener), Propanediol (hydration), Sodium Phytate (chelating agent), Phenoxyethanol (preservative), Ethylhexylglycerin (preservative).

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