The Derma Corner: The science behind pimple patches - how do they work?
Acne or pimple patches have been one of the skincare trends that have gained momentum since it was introduced by Korean beauty brands. I myself have used them during a certain time of the month because of hormonal acne. In fact, I have a small stash of them set aside when the need arises. But have you ever wondered how they work?
A short history of pimple patches
Before they were transformed into smaller pieces for acne, pimple patches were actually used in active wound care for ulcers, burns and surgical wounds as hydrocolloid dressings. These dressings were patented back in 1967 and contain gel-forming agents like gelatin or pectin. They are able to absorb the fluid from the wound, which would form into a jelly-like, white mass.
Their outer layer is made with either a foam or a film that protects the wound and prevents water and bacteria from entering it. Additionally, these dressings are designed to create a moist environment for the wound that helps speed up its healing.
The benefits of patching up
So to put it simply, pimple patches are miniaturized hydrocolloid dressings meant for well, acne. They come in different sizes, from small to large patches, in different shapes - squares, rectangles and even stars, and in medicated and non-medicated forms. They should be applied to clean and dry skin, before any skincare is applied. They can be used during day or night. The white material you see collected under when they’re peeled off is the fluid and oil absorbed from the skin’s damaged area.
Aside from its obvious advantages, pimple patches have added benefits too. They can prevent or lessen post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation because they decrease the sun’s UV exposure to acne. They also lessen the possibility of scarring because they prevent pimples from being further infected and from being picked on. And, certain ingredients included in the medicated pimple patches can help reduce the inflammation of the pimple.
But why is my pimple patch not working?
First, regular hydrocolloid patches need an open wound to work on so it can absorb the fluid, pus and oil included; therefore, if a pimple isn’t pricked or popped, then it isn’t of much use. Second, they don’t work on blackheads and whiteheads; even if a white mass formed, it may only mean that the patch has absorbed the oil from the skin. Third, not all kinds of patches will work on deep breakouts as those may need medicated patches or with microneedles/darts to penetrate the deeper part of the skin, and even then, it’s not a reassurance that the “medication” in it would reach the area where the acne is.
The limitation of pimple patches
As for disadvantages, like I mentioned earlier, they don’t work on all kinds of acne, only superficial ones. Sensitive skin may also become irritated with the adhesive or an active ingredient in the patches due to occlusion. Any ingredient, especially those that help treat acne like salicylic acid or tea tree oil, has the potential to be an irritant when put under occlusion because its potency increases.
Patches are a quick fix, but not a cure
If there’s one thing that I want all of you to take away from this article, it’s that pimple patches are not the ultimate solution for acne. They may offer a quick fix in hiding or calming down a zit but the most effective treatment is still those that we, dermatologists, prescribe and of course the steps necessary to prevent further breakouts. So, for proper guidance on how to treat and prevent acne, please consult with board-certified dermatologists.
Until my next article then, stay safe!
Dr. Nikki Paderna is currently available for online consultations thru the HealthNow and Medifi app on Google Play for Android devices and on the Apple store for iOS devices, or thru the FB page, Vivestrata Dermatology Clinic (for face-to-face consultations, kindly message the FB page for details).
