Beyond Hype: Here are the best anti-aging products for your skin that ACTUALLY work
Aging is a natural and inevitable process that we all experience. In fact, we experience it every day, in every part of our bodies! As the largest organ and an external one at that, our skin is where the signs of aging become most obvious. With decreasing elasticity and our body's repair processes slowing down, skin becomes thinner and more fragile as we age. Applying products won't stop the wrinkles, age spots, or sagging, but they can definitely slow down the process and help protect your skin against external damage. The key is to make sure that the anti-aging products you use actually have ingredients that work!
Sunscreen
We constantly repeat the importance of wearing sunscreen here on PV because sun exposure is a major cause of damage, called photoaging. We can do our best to stay indoors, but UVA rays can even pass through glass. That’s why dermatologists recommend using sunscreen daily, even when it's cloudy and rainy!
There are many sunscreen options for different needs and for every part of your body, but there are two things you should check when choosing a sunscreen: the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), and the PA (Protection Grade of UVA) or PFA (Protective Factor of UVA). SPF signifies the protection you get against UVB rays, which commonly causes redness and sunburn. PA or PFA measures protection against UVA rays, which makes the effects of photoaging more obvious on your skin.
To actually get the full benefits of sunscreen and enjoy the level of protection promised by the ratings, it's important to apply the right amount of sunscreen. What's recommended is "approximately two milligrams of sunscreen per square centimeter of skin", or about 2 finger-lengths worth of product.
My personal favorites are the VMV Hypoallergenics Armada Sport SPF70 PFA10 (P1,950 for 85g, VMV) and CosRX Aloe Soothing Sun Cream SPF50 PA+++ (P552 for 50ml, BeautyMNL).
Retinoids
Topical retinoids remain to be the mainstay and first-line of therapy for photoaging. They come from vitamin A, and they work by increasing collagen production. This helps to prevent and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and the stimulation to the blood vessels give skin a healthier color.
There three main types of retinoids that are mainly used for anti-aging: tretinoin, tazarotene, and adapalene. However, if you are pregnant, could be pregnant, or planning to be pregnant, any form of retinoids use is generally discouraged because it may harm the baby.
My holy grail is The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% in Squalane ($14.70 for 30ml, Deciem). Locally, Differin Gel (P1,165.25 for 15g) and Epiduo (P1,722.75 for 15g) both contain adapalene, and are available in most drugstores. You probably know Retin-A (P274.50 for 5g) from your mom or titas, but tretinoin is also present in the Maxi Peel Exfoliant Solution (P71.75 for 60ml).
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
Niacinamide is said to reduce transepidermal water loss or the loss of moisture in the skin, which helps keep skin from being easily damaged. It also prevents pigmentation and increases collagen production.
This is a great over-all anti-aging product as it works well for reducing the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, dryness, and dullness. In Her Element has the Petal Skin Rose Toning Essence (P875 for 100ml, inherelement.ph) that contains niacinamide!
Vitamin C
Like niacinamide, vitamin C or ascorbic acid is an antioxidant that protects skin from harmful UVA damage. This is an ingredient especially recommended if you have dark spots, hyperpigmentation, or mild scars because of its efficacy in lightening the skin! Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective™ Dark Spot Solution (P2,995, Kiehl’s) is what I use, but the other PV girls have also tried some K-beauty options.
Hydroxy Acids
Chemical exfoliation or skincare acids remove the dead and dull layer of the skin, and reveal the new and healthier one underneath. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are usually best used for creating a brighter and smoother skin surface, while beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) can dissolve clogs that cause a bumpy skin texture. Our favorites are the In Her Element Glow Job 5% Glycolic Gel Cream (P775 for 30ml, inherelement.ph) and CosRX BHA Blackhead Power Liquid (P990, BeautyMNL).
There are also polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) that behave similarly to AHAs but are gentler and more hydrating. Gluconolactone is an wonderful example, and can be found in the CosRX Low pH PHA Barrier Mist (P990, BeautyMNL) and the CosRX PHA Moisture Renewal Power Cream (P1, 250, theskincarecurator).
Peptides
While they aren't talked about as much as the others, peptides are also good anti-aging ingredients, specifically palmitoyl tripeptide. With this peptide, the production of collagen and other skin proteins are stimulated, and the epidermis (which is the outermost layer of the skin) is strengthened. This reduces wrinkles and even skin roughness because the skin is made plumper.
My favorite peptide product so far is The Ordinary Matrixyl 10% + HA ($15.90 for 30ml, Deciem).
Now, to answer the question: when should I start using anti-aging products? I haven't found anything specific about when we actually start aging in my medical textbooks, and I think it’s because we are all different people with different lifestyles. Genetics play a huge factor, and behaviors like smoking and unprotected sun exposure bring external stress to the skin. Even mannerisms like furrowing your brows or squinting your eyes a lot can make you more predisposed to having lines on those areas.
For the most part, anti-aging products are best used as a preventive measure rather than a treatment so you may want to consider using actives before you actually need them. A dermatologist is also your best partner in choosing and deciding when to start anti-aging products. One thing's for sure, though - it's never too early, or too late, to start wearing sunscreen!
References:
Zussman J, Ahdout J, Kim J. Vitamins and photoaging: do scientific data support their use? J Am Acad Dermatol 2010; 63:507.
Cho S, Lowe L, Hamilton TA, et al. Long-term treatment of photoaged human skin with topical retinoic acid improves epidermal cell atypia and thickens the collagen band in papillary dermis. J Am Acad Dermatol 2005; 53:769.
Griffiths CE, Russman AN, Majmudar G, et al. Restoration of collagen formation in photodamaged human skin by tretinoin (retinoic acid). N Engl J Med 1993; 329:530.
Bhawan J, Olsen E, Lufrano L, et al. Histologic evaluation of the long term effects of tretinoin on photodamaged skin. J Dermatol Sci 1996; 11:177.
Kang S, Duell EA, Fisher GJ, et al. Application of retinol to human skin in vivo induces epidermal hyperplasia and cellular retinoid binding proteins characteristic of retinoic acid but without measurable retinoic acid levels or irritation. J Invest Dermatol 1995; 105:549.
Fisher GJ, Datta SC, Talwar HS, et al. Molecular basis of sun-induced premature skin ageing and retinoid antagonism. Nature 1996; 379:335.
Kligman AM. Introduction: What is cosmeceuticals. In: Procedures in Cosmetic Dermatology Series: Cosmeceuticals, 1st ed, Draelos ZD (Ed), WB Saunders, Philadelphia 2005.
Lintner, K.; Peschard, O. Biologically active peptides: From a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. Int. J. Cosmet. Sci. 2000, 22, 207–218.
Safety Assessment of Palmitoyl Oligopeptides as Used in Cosmetics. Available online: http://www.cir-safety.org/sites/default/files/palmit072012slr.pdf
